1. Bolt the bare
crossmember
in place using the original leaf spring holes.
Using a stock location
point,
measure the crossmember side to side to be sure it is square. After
determining
it is square, completely weld into place.
2. The face of the front of
the coil over bracket to the rear face of the front crossmember is 25
½".
Using a square jig position
the rear crossmember 25 ½" back from the front crossmember.
Check
to be sure it is level and square. The measurement of 25 ½" is
taken
face to face.
3. We assemble the rear
bars
and brackets and clamp a square jig to each bracket 27" apart. This
keeps
the brackets level and square. When the housing is centered in the
frame
the brackets are tacked in place. Keep the lower bars level and place a
level on the coil over mounting.
NOTE: WHEN WELDING THE BRACKETS ON TO THE HOUSING CARE MUST ME TAKEN!!! ONLY WELD APPROX ¼" AT A TIME AND LET IT COOL BEFORE CONTINUING WELDING. IT IS VERY EAST TO WARP A HOUSING WHEN WELDING ON THE BRACKETS.
4. After the 4-bar brackets
are in place bolt the panhard bar to the brackets and place the rear
end
bracket in the center of the housing. Tack weld the bracket keeping the
brackets square and level. A bar or strap with holes on 12" centers
will
keep the rear housing at ride height. Keep the bar or strap in the
housing
bracket center hole.
5. When using a rear sway
bar the bracket hole is even with the lower housing hole.
6. When mini tubbing the
1970
Camaro we trimmed the inner wheel wells out and then trimmed the floor
panel into the original rails. We then reinstalled the inner wheel well
which gave us several more inches of clearance. This gave us
approximately
15" from the fender lip to the inner panel. The trunk DOES NOT need to
be cut for the rear crossmember clearance in the 1970-1973 Camaro.
7.
We then added a
steel strip
and welded and seam sealed it into place.
